2 Days tour of Apollonia, Riviera, Berat, Gjirokaster & Blue Eye

Leaving Tirana at 8:00 we will head towards Gjirokastra, situated 230 Km from Tirana, described as “a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town, built by farmers of the large estate”. Driving through deep South Albania, the road is mainly surrounded by planted fields in one of the most fertile regions of Albanian agriculture. In addition, we will drive by the Vjosa River, one of the very few wild rivers in Albania and the Balkans.

The drive through Llogara is simply put – amazing. First, you can enjoy nature full of green trees and very calming but later on you can look at the amazing seashore from above, which is something out of the movies. The scenic drive continues along the coastal villages of Dhermi, Qeparo, and Vuno where the typical stone architecture is fanatically preserved and in the last couple of years transforming the riviera into the center of tourism in Albania. Time for lunch Stop in Saranda or Ksamil. 

Our next stop will be in one of the most amazing natural phenomena in Albania. Located in a village near Finiq, the Blue Eye or Syri i Kaltër is a water spring that perfectly describes Albania’s natural beauty – breathtaking. Full of vibrant blue water so clear you can see all the way to the bottom and the sunlight makes it a magical place, especially to take some neat photos or have a quick swim. The spring is an easy hike from the parking area and you can refresh in a cafe nearby while there.

Once we get into the city you would understand that this city is not like the others. The historical part starts at one of the main squares of the city under the name of one of the most famous Albanian Patriots of the 19th century, Cerciz Topulli. It is where most of the cobblestone streets are ending their impetuous run from the high of the castle. 

Dating from the 17th Century, during the Ottoman era, has been the heart of the city that pumps life into all directions. It was the most important economical district of the city where the rumors and the gossip of the time were spread quickly through the people. Most people would buy, sell or just chill while sipping coffee. In a time where also a lot of marriages are arranged, it was the perfect central place to meet for the families to meet before the ceremony.  

Today, restored and nicely presented to the visitor, this side of the city will bring the history in front of you through the souvenirs or interesting tales of the welcoming, local vendors. 

Wondering through the Bazaar we will reach the Gjirokastra Fortress. Build on the top of the hill, into a naturally well-protected position, this was the first settlement of life in the early city.  Closely tied with the fascinating Legend of Argjiro, the young prince who sacrificed herself, this castle is often called the Crown of the City. Heavily restored for the last time in the 19th Century it has been used much time as a fortress and prison from all the regimes and political casts of the time. Despite the Historical values, it offers the same great view of the stone city, lazily settled on the steep parts of the city. 

The typical Fortress-looking style of the houses is one of the reasons why the city is part of the UNESCO Heritage. Unique, chick, and very functional, every house was projected to function independently. 

Furthermore, the house that we will be visiting has still functional all the components that qualify it as one of the most beautiful houses of the Balkans from that period. Since Gjirokastra is a place with very little amount of water, the house was built with an independent system of collecting, filtering, and preserving water. Divided into many family and ceremonial rooms, it also has its own “private bunker” in case of bombardments. It is defiantly like living in the past. 

Early morning we leave Gjirokaster after an overnight stay and head toward Central South Albania to the City of Many Windows, Berat. Part of the UNESCO World Heritage since 2008, Berat is an important city even today with more than 20 centuries of History. Surprisingly life has never been stopped throughout History and today, the Castle or “Kalaja” is the oldest neighborhood of the City.  Inhabited by a mainly Christian Orthodox population, this part of the city has also the largest collection of churches dating from as early as the 14th century. 

Mangalem is probably the most scenic part of Berat. Lied steply on the Hill, just under the castle, it is characterized by typical Architecture, White walls, and many windows seeing its other copy, Gorica. Mangalem was structured mainly in the Ottoman period and was definitely shaped as today after an earthquake where some parts of the city were destroyed. The style changed from a heavy towers style with small windows and stone to a lighter structure, with more windows and way lighter. 

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Berat was one of the most important cities in Albania. Furthermore, it also attracted citizens from all over the country to create settlements around the city. In this way, Gorica was created mainly as a merchant quarter, especially with citizens from Voskopoja of South East of Albania. The white color of the city and the style were preserved creating in this way a city with two similar faces on 2 sides of the Osumi River, connected through the Stone Bridge of Gorica.  

After some free time in Berat, we conclude our trip and start our way back to Tirana/Durres in a comfortable drive back.